the design process
Design is everywhere and inspiration may come from a variety of places: color, texture, heft, feel, the smooth curve of beach worn granite, a moment, an era, a lifetime. The range of expression available through jewelry is adaptable to almost any design consideration, from moonlit tropical beach scenes to Hopi wedding shawls to ancient Chinese pottery designs, from subtle suggestions to bold representations. Anything is possible.

cast ring with button
For those clients who know that they want to design a unique, personal piece of jewelry, but have not yet settled on a specific idea, we can suggest a process that may be helpful in your decision making. It may help to consider the initial design phase as one of elimination. (Sometimes it is easier to know what you don’t want than what you do want.) The next step is to ask a series of simple questions involving opposites. For example, do you like a solid heft or a more light and delicate presence? Do you like organic curves or do you favor geometric lines and angles? Middle ground is an acceptable answer. After five or six questions we may not know exactly how the piece will look, but we know enough to begin the process of creating a wax prototype. A wax model is then carved with the design parameters we have discussed in mind. The next step is for the client to review the wax model, which can continue to be refined and altered as necessary. Although it can seem initially intimidating most people find that the design process is enjoyable and rewarding.

colored gemstones
If gemstones are desired, it is generally best to procure them before beginning the physical design. There are subtle differences in even the most common of gem shapes and with specific gem materials chosen we can account for any variations during the design process. Jewelry that is meant to be worn every day, such as wedding rings, require some extra consideration when choosing gem materials. We encourage people to consider the durability of the gem and how it is to be set. We can design a setting to protect a more vulnerable gem, but durability is desirable in a gem material that will see constant wear. The way a gem is set is also important to its long-term viability, for rings we tend to recommend bezel and graver settings over prong and channel settings. Ultimately, we feel that these methods are more secure and offer more protection to the stone. We may even creatively integrate a gem setting into the design. It is a common misconception that a gem needs to be “up” to catch light and look good, the brilliance and fire displayed by a properly cut stone is created by light entering through the top of the stone, not the sides. However, prongs may be used to create a more delicate look in your design.
Goldworks maintains an in store inventory of diamonds and gem materials at very competitive prices. Additionally, with our professional connections and affiliations we have access to virtually every gem dealer in the world and can acquire gems that meet your specific needs and desires.
After choosing gems and a design direction, we will create, a wax-model prototype for your inspection. A three-dimensional wax prototype will allow you to really get a “feel” for your piece of jewelry. We can normally mount any gems we are using in the wax model so you can see how they will work in the actual design.

wax carving with stone
The first viewing of a wax model may result in your approval of the design. Often, however, we will have gotten close, but not exactly what you visualized. At this point your honest feedback will help us to revise the wax to meet your specifications. We will repeat this feedback loop as many times as it takes to arrive at your vision of the design. Our flat design and production fee guarantees as much time as it takes to make it right for you.
Upon approval of the design, through the magic of a process called lost-wax casting, the final wax model actually becomes the finished piece of jewelry. What you see in the wax model is truly and accurately the form that you will receive as the finished project.
